Thursday, June 6, 2013

St. John's Best Boulders

I must be missing home because I've decided to to a list of the best boulder problems around St. John's at each grade. I found it too hard to choose one for each grade so I have listed my top 3. The top 3 are not in any order. This is obviously just my opinion at the moment based on what I have climbed.

Hopefully people might find this list motivating to get out and tick some new problems. I'd like to get a photo of each one so if you are out climbing on them take some pictures.

V0
Nice Arete - Flatrock/Trailer boulders. Classic warm up.

Heavenly path - Freshwater Bay. High enough to be scary despite the easy moves.

Jamie's Mom - Wongs House. Fun climbing on cool incut holds.


V1 
Crabhouse Crack - Flatrock/Crabhouse. Another classic.
382201_10151314151872601_684789817_n.jpg
Rob Anderson on Crabhouse Crack, photo by Joel Harvie



Banjo Chase Music - Mandolin Boulder. Great movement on good holds.

Benguala Current - Marine Lab. Fun climbing on good holds.



V2
Catch me Quicker - Crabhouse. Fun crimping leads to a scary top out.
313891_10151314153502601_942196296_n.jpg
David Bruneau on Catch me Quick, photo by Joel Harvie




Kansas City Shuffle - Fort Amherst. Fun moves lead to a very committing move at the lip. Trust your feet.

Seal Tank - Marine Lab. Fun moves on cool holds.


V3
Old Man's Beard - The Chapel Boulder. Highball. Fun climbing just keeps going.

Party Bus - Big Beach Boulder/ CBS. Very committing highball. Bring lots of pads.
3350_192372270110_5569186_n.jpg
Liam Bennet on Party Bus, photo Brad Kennedy



Bali - Marine Lab. A unique set up leads to a fun big move.


V4
Making Love to a Kenmore - Flatrock. Classic squeezing.

Fly Casual, Mike and Neil Boulders. Fun moves up a steep prow, unless you are willing to be eaten alive this problem is best saved for when there are no flies.

Rock, Chalk and Two Smoking Holds - Mandolin Boulder. An awkward start leads to a very fun dyno.
319_84943035704_2537_n.jpg
Matt Scott on Rock Chalk and Two Smoking Holds, photo by Trevor Harris




V5

Nice Try - Topsail Head Boulders. Big fun moves up an amazing face. Quite tall.

Rapid Eye Movement - Dreamworld. Cool moves up an arete on an amazing boulder.

Wooly Wolf - Freshwater Bay. Really cool movement right by the water. Harder if you are short.


V6
Finger Fried - Barrens Boulder. The classic V6. Crimpy fun.

Extinction - Butterpot Park. Amazing climb, fun moves lead to a chuck for the top.

Poverty Line - Talc Mine. Very proud line with committing moves well above the ground.


V7
Ketamine - Fort Amherst. Very fun climb, now goes with a variety of beta.

Baboon KingFreshwater Bay. Great climb with one of the coolest slopers ever.

Its Always Sunny in CBS- Big Beach Boulder. Really fun slapping, great movement is sadly marred by graffiti.


V8
The Wire - Flatrock. Really fun climb up an awesome feature.

Beat it Like a Red Headed Step Child - Roadside Boulder. A much better climb than it looks.

Smack - Talc Mine. Tricky.



V9
Born to Clear Cut - Freshwater Bay. Amazing climb. Burly moves up an amazing face.
319_84943000704_444_n.jpg
David Bruneau on Born to Clear Cut, photo by Trevor Harris


Warlord - Barrens Boulder. Finger Frieds big brother. As good or better than the original.

41225_460982771814_2079394_n.jpg
Thomasina Pidgeon on Warlord, photo Greg Foote



V10
Commitment to Quality, Flatrock. Name says it all. Still waiting for a committed repeater.
208274_180083875375914_6759936_n.jpg



Me Ol Cock - Marine Lab. Cool movement on cool holds on cool rock.