Flatrock Topo

The Trailer Boulders

1. Nice Arete, V0 - Layback up the arete keeping your feet on the face.

2. The Bundaberg Arete, V7 - Sit start with a big low side-pull for your right hand and a thin seam for your right. Pull up onto your feet and move left hand to a crimp and right hand to a notch on the arete. Do the big crux move to the slopey side pull then top out. (FA Dave Stack, 04)

3. Un-Named, V2 - Sit start on the obvious hold, traverse using heel hooks left as far as you can then top out. Bit of a struggle to keep your butt off the ground.

4. Nosferatu, V5 - Sit start with your left hand on the arete and your right on a crimpy sidepull notch. Heel hook to get to better holds on the arete, pull up and over the bulge to top out. Has had some controversy over what is the natural line, just have fun. (FA Greg Foote 01)

5. Addiction, VH - Thought to have still been a project this steep line was climbed by Tim Doyle during a short visit. (FA Tim Doyle)

6. Nazis and Their Chickens, V3 - Sit start on the big ledge, pull up to a pinch right on the arete with your right hand and then a left hand sidepull above it, top out straight up. Alternate beta uses a small undercling instead of the pinch.

7. Pinch Problem, V2 - Sit start a little futher right on the same ledge, push out to a cool pinch with your right hand, heel hook and get a crimp on the face with your left, stand up and top out.

8. Sloper Slab, V1 - Climb the mostly blank slab to cool slopey holds higher up.

9. Un-named, V0 - Climb the slabby face using good holds and cracks.

Description: Due to their easy access and proximity to Flatrock's Main Face these boulders have probably seen more traffic than any other on the island. Whether it's your first time bouldering or you have all the problems dialled there is something for everyone here.

Directions: From St. John's head out Torbay road, just past the town of Torbay turn right onto Windgap Rd. Follow the road into the town of Flatrock, turn onto the wharf just past Wade's lane, park at the end of the wharf and walk straight up the hill, you will see the Trailer very quickly. The owners of the trailer have asked us to not cross over their land, walk past the trailer until you are at the boulder which has the unfortunate "dick munch" grafitti, turn right and walk uphill here, you should see a worn down trail PLEAE STICK TO THE TRAIL to avoid making new ones.

Redpath Boulder

Directions: Head straight out the path on the beamer past the trailer boulders. This boulder is a lone boulder almost hidden in some bushes before you get to the much more obvious "Two Boulders"

1. Redpath Productions V1 - Start low on the ride side, climb up and left to top out at the peak.

Two Boulders

Directions: Hard to miss. Just head straight out the path on the beamer till you come face to face with these two boulders sitting right in the centre of the beamer.

Left Boulder

1. Two Boulder's Slab, V0 - Climb up the centre of the big slab. (can be done hands free with a running start...)

2. High Steppin, V0 - Climb up the big ledges to the top

Right Boulder (aka Triangle Boulder)

1. A-Team left, V0 - Climb the left arete to the top.

2. Triangle Face, V1 - Sit start then climb straight up the face on cool holds.

3. A-Team right, V0 - Climb the right arete to the top.

Left Boulder (back)

1. Bitch Slappin', V4 -  Sit start with your left hand low on a sloper and right hand on a crimp. Do a hard slap with the left hand to a better sloper then continue up the blocky feature. Often unclimbable due to a large puddle. The big flat block to the left is considered "out".

The Crabhouse

Directions: Just past the two boulders head to the right as you walk down the beamer make your way slightly down hill and around the corner to find this tall vertical face.

1.  Bulge problem, V0 - Climb the obvious bulge feature.

2. Corner Problem, V0 - An easy climb straight up the corner.

3. Catch Me Quicker, V2 -  From standing on the large protrusion climb of a series of thin crimps to reach a large horizontal crack, then reach right to get into the name inspiring committing top out. Very fun.

4. Crabhouse Crack, V1 - Climb the obvious wide crack.

5. Meat Popsicle, V3 - Start in the vertical crack then climb up to two shallow parallel cracks to gain the top.

The Beamer

"Mordor"

Directions: Head straight down from the trailer boulders to the water and this area should be pretty easy to spot.

1. 60 Second Abs, V4 - Start way in the back of a crack and use the crack/ledge to climb out and then up the vertical crack.

2. The Wire, V8 - Start with both hands on the obvious ledge, throw up a heel then do some powerful moves to get into easier climbing in the crack above.

3. Project -   Start on an undercling with your feet on the big ledge, reach out to some small crimps. I had eyed the project for years but only this year saw that their might actually be enough holds for it to go.

4. Commitment to Quality, V10? - Start underneath the roof then use a toe cam to reach back and get up onto some crimps  then a pinch on the face, do some burly moves with a key pebble to get your feet up then top out. Still awaiting a second ascent.

5. 9 Fingers, V0 - Start under the roof then climb up and right.

Low Tide Area

Directions: A little trickier to give specific directions to. This area is very close to the water basically straight down from just before you reach the two boulders.

1. Project - Start matched on the obvious ledge/seam campus to a crimp with your left hand, drop your right hand in to make room for a hand heel match then crank up to a right hand crimp. Keep going up for what has the potential to be a frightening top out.

2. Dan's Dyno, V4 - Start on the blocky feature, reach up to a good ledge then paste your feet and fire out right to the jug then top out.

3. Calmer Seas, V3 - Start with both hands on a cool quartz hollow feature, using tricky feet and small crimps climb up the face.

Kenmore

Directions: This classic problem is further along the beamer. If you walk straight down from the two boulders then turn right when you get to the water you should find it fairly easily.

1. Making Love to a Kenmore, V4 - Sit start squeezing both sides off this unique feature. Pull your ass off the ground the slap your way up the sides until you can reach a good hold on the face then beach yourself over the top. A classic.