My goal was "Entre les gouts" a two move V10 I had tried in the summer. A really simple problem, it starts with a high, bad left hand gaston, pulls up to a really thin crimp/pinch or "crimpinch" to use a word I just made up. The crimpinch is hard to even just hold but you then have to pull off it to do a big move up with your left hand to an awkwardly shaped but kind of incut hold at which point its just one easy move the finish jug. After quite a bit of effort in the summer I had managed to stick the first move but was never able to come anywhere near the second.
I was hopeful that a combination of cold conditions and the fact that I have been climbing/ training quite a bit since the summer would lead to success.
The day after I arrived was a perfect 0 degrees, and snowing lightly but the crag is overhanging so that did not matter. I took the train and bus out to St. George and once again found myself bouldering alone, except for a couple deer (or something?) that were having a snack nearby.
Deer?
Ice bouldering anyone?
After a quick warm up I got right to business. I was a little nervous after failing to stick the first move on my first couple tries but I eventually got the movement sorted out and then was getting the first move consistently and throwing for the next hold. The first time I slapped it with any semblance of control I knew I could do the problem.
Excited, I kept throwing myself at it... but not sticking it. After 3 hours of solid effort I was having to face the fact that I might have to walk away and try to come back and send it while fresh. The bus back from the boulders to geneva leaves every hour and I knew I did not have another hour of attempts left in me. So with 10 minutes until the bus arrived I told myself I'd have one last try and then pack it in for the day. Next thing I knew, I had stuck the crux move and finished the problem. I quickly threw my things in my pad then ran up the hill just in time to catch the bus.
I've noticed (and mentioned here) that I frequently climb my best when climbing without any expectations and this send certainly supports that. What I need to figure out is a way to get myself climbing with that mentality more consistently, but it's a hard thing to fake. While trying the problem I felt confident that I was physically capable of doing it. As I continued to fail I tried a number different mental techniques to try and get out of the cycle of falling. But it wasn't until I was actually climbing without any pressure or expectations at all that I was able to do the problem. Something to try to work on in the future for sure.
Anyway, heres another phone on the ground video of the problem.
