Barrens Boulder Topo

The Barrens Boulder

1. Boreal Drifter, V2 - Sit start on the far left of the face and traverse the entire lip of the boulder to top out above # 3.

2. Unnamed, V2 - Sit start with a high right hand gaston and a left hand crimp, pull to a blocky undercling for the left hand then shoot for the top. (FA Greg Foote 01)

3. At Play in the Fields of a Warlord, V9 - Sit start on two obvious good crimps. Climb straight up the face using small spaced out crimps. Steep crimpy fun at it's best. (FA Sean McDowall-05)

4. Finger Fried, V6 - Same start as "warlord". Head right off the start for an incut right hand crimp. Sort your feet out to move your left hand to a sidepull on the arete, move right hand to a pocket, bump the left on the arete then fire for a hidden crimp on the face, big move with the left hand to a good hold then go for the top. One of the best problems in Newfoundland. A must climb. (FA Greg Foote 01)

5. Left Side Dominate, V5 - Sit start with left hand on the arete and right hand on a bad low crimp. Go for a good right hand and move your left hand along the arete to get up to better holds above. Low and a bit silly. (FA Shane Dooley 03)

6. Right Side, V0 - Sit start at the base of the arete and traverse up and left to top out. (FA Greg Foote 01)

Description: Though a bit of a trek to get to the barrens boulder has some of the best problems on the avalon in beautiful scenery. However there are not many problems in the easier range so it is not an ideal novice destination.

Approach: 25 minutes Drive, 20 minute walk

Directions: Again this is a tricky boulder to give directions for. Head west along the TCH from St. John's. About 5 minutes past the entrance to Butter pot park there is a new blue sign that says "Witless Bay sea Bird Ecological reserve 20 km on route 13" Park just past this sign right in front of a small wooden sign that says "provincial park no cutting no hunting". Cross the ditch where it is worn down and you should be right on a trail you will follow most of the way to the boulder. After a short while (2-3 minutes) you should walk past a low boulder surrounded by Juniper trees. This is the Prostitute boulder it has the V2 Roxanne and a couple other problems on it. Keep going along the trail until you have to cross a marshy section (water proof boots recommended) Just after crossing the marshy section head left off the trail to cross the stream where it is smallest. Head straight across the stream and up the hill behind it, you will be facing a pond, the barrens boulder is on the far side of the bond. Go left and follow the edge of the pond until you come to a steep hill, head up the hill and follow along its plateau until you can see the boulder and then head down.