August pt 2

The next day out was with Giz to Flatrock. Giz is just trying to get back into bouldering after a forced hiatus, so Flatrock was a good are for having lots of easy problems.

We warmed up in the sun at The Crab House and the Two Boulders, doing laps on easy problems I have done countless times but still enjoy.

Then we headed down to see if "Making Love to a Kenmore" V4 was dry. Kenmore is a really cool problem, one of my favourites at flatrock; you squeeze your way up an over hanging fridge shaped feature. The sides are completely blank and almost textureless so you really have to squeeze to keep yourself on. Near the top there is one hold on the face that lets you get to the top-out. Unfortunately seepage from the grass above the problem tends to run directly down over this one hold. So it is rare to find it dry enough to use.

As expected this was the case, but we decided to get on it anyway, Giz worked on the squeezy moves while I managed to complete the problem by chucking for the top past the wet hold.

A few days later we came back so Jamie could do the problem and found the hold surprisingly dry... oh well.

"Making love to a kenmore" V4

After sending Kenmore we went to the trailer boulders, Giz worked on "Nazi's and their chickens" V3 until his skin hurt to much to keep going, then I got on "the Bundaberg Arete", a crimpy balancy v7 that feels really hard every time I try it. After a bit of work I was relieved to get the send as my fingers were starting to protest about the amount of crimping they were doing.

A video of "Rading Gorbachov's wine Cellar", "Finger Fried" and "The Bundaberg Arete"

Bouldering Newfoundland, August 2011 from Dave Stack on Vimeo.