Monday, August 29, 2011

August pt 3




The next problem on the tick list was "Poverty Line" a tall V6 at the talc mine boulders in manuels. I went out with Jamie hoping to lap the problem quickly and then start working on a v8 I have not sent in the same area.

We warmed up and then started working the problem. It is quite tall with the crux moves coming high off the deck so it took us a little while to get our heads around committing to the moves. After a few goes I slapped for what I thought was the hold on the crux move but hit blank rock instead.

Thinking I had remembered the beta wrong we started trying other options and spent a long session trying to find a way up the problem. After falling for quite a while and trying to figure out what we were missing I tried slapping for the same hold I had earlier, this time I found the crimp I had missed earlier and stuck the hold. I came off that go but we both sent the problem shortly after we figured out the original beta had been the right sequence after all.

After a long session on small crimpers we were not feeling in the mood to try any other hard problems so we packed it in and called it a day, happy to have another problem ticked off the list... even if it took longer than it should have.


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