Thursday, June 6, 2013

St. John's Best Boulders

I must be missing home because I've decided to to a list of the best boulder problems around St. John's at each grade. I found it too hard to choose one for each grade so I have listed my top 3. The top 3 are not in any order. This is obviously just my opinion at the moment based on what I have climbed.

Hopefully people might find this list motivating to get out and tick some new problems. I'd like to get a photo of each one so if you are out climbing on them take some pictures.

V0
Nice Arete - Flatrock/Trailer boulders. Classic warm up.

Heavenly path - Freshwater Bay. High enough to be scary despite the easy moves.

Jamie's Mom - Wongs House. Fun climbing on cool incut holds.


V1 
Crabhouse Crack - Flatrock/Crabhouse. Another classic.
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Rob Anderson on Crabhouse Crack, photo by Joel Harvie



Banjo Chase Music - Mandolin Boulder. Great movement on good holds.

Benguala Current - Marine Lab. Fun climbing on good holds.



V2
Catch me Quicker - Crabhouse. Fun crimping leads to a scary top out.
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David Bruneau on Catch me Quick, photo by Joel Harvie




Kansas City Shuffle - Fort Amherst. Fun moves lead to a very committing move at the lip. Trust your feet.

Seal Tank - Marine Lab. Fun moves on cool holds.


V3
Old Man's Beard - The Chapel Boulder. Highball. Fun climbing just keeps going.

Party Bus - Big Beach Boulder/ CBS. Very committing highball. Bring lots of pads.
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Liam Bennet on Party Bus, photo Brad Kennedy



Bali - Marine Lab. A unique set up leads to a fun big move.


V4
Making Love to a Kenmore - Flatrock. Classic squeezing.

Fly Casual, Mike and Neil Boulders. Fun moves up a steep prow, unless you are willing to be eaten alive this problem is best saved for when there are no flies.

Rock, Chalk and Two Smoking Holds - Mandolin Boulder. An awkward start leads to a very fun dyno.
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Matt Scott on Rock Chalk and Two Smoking Holds, photo by Trevor Harris




V5

Nice Try - Topsail Head Boulders. Big fun moves up an amazing face. Quite tall.

Rapid Eye Movement - Dreamworld. Cool moves up an arete on an amazing boulder.

Wooly Wolf - Freshwater Bay. Really cool movement right by the water. Harder if you are short.


V6
Finger Fried - Barrens Boulder. The classic V6. Crimpy fun.

Extinction - Butterpot Park. Amazing climb, fun moves lead to a chuck for the top.

Poverty Line - Talc Mine. Very proud line with committing moves well above the ground.


V7
Ketamine - Fort Amherst. Very fun climb, now goes with a variety of beta.

Baboon KingFreshwater Bay. Great climb with one of the coolest slopers ever.

Its Always Sunny in CBS- Big Beach Boulder. Really fun slapping, great movement is sadly marred by graffiti.


V8
The Wire - Flatrock. Really fun climb up an awesome feature.

Beat it Like a Red Headed Step Child - Roadside Boulder. A much better climb than it looks.

Smack - Talc Mine. Tricky.



V9
Born to Clear Cut - Freshwater Bay. Amazing climb. Burly moves up an amazing face.
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David Bruneau on Born to Clear Cut, photo by Trevor Harris


Warlord - Barrens Boulder. Finger Frieds big brother. As good or better than the original.

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Thomasina Pidgeon on Warlord, photo Greg Foote



V10
Commitment to Quality, Flatrock. Name says it all. Still waiting for a committed repeater.
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Me Ol Cock - Marine Lab. Cool movement on cool holds on cool rock.




3 comments:

  1. Awesome list Dave!! Have to get out and try to tick off a few more of those. Where can i find some info on bouldering on the west coast (gull pond)??? nothing online at all:(

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    Replies
    1. Johnny: There's nothing online about gull pond to my knowledge. Try getting in touch with Nigel Pike on facebook, he's pretty active out there. He has an article coming out in the next issue of Gripped magazine about the bouldering there. Good luck!

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  2. Hey, randomly came across this blog when looking to see if there were any good known bouldering problems along the AT in Connecticut while I am hiking that section and I was trying to find something at St John's Ledges in CT. I can't tell if that's the area you mean when you say St. John's.

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