*(too much detail on climbing one problem.)
After warming up I felt fresh and confident. I hopped on "L'enflure" and felt good through the openings moves only to come off at the same crux move I had already fallen on countless times on the previous two sessions.
Several attempts later I was still no closer. The crux move that has been shutting me down involves taking an awkward, crimpy, sidepull, high stepping with the left foot, and then bumping the right foot high enough with a drop knee to allow the right hand to make a big move to the finish. I've already seen two people do this move with ease but whenever I got up there I felt like I could barely hold the sidepull well enough to move my feet, let alone do a long reach to the finish.
So today, after several attempts I was starting to get discouraged when I was again surprised by another climber showing up at the crag. After he warmed up while watching me fall repeatedly at the same move he commented that I was "presque la", I told him I had been "almost there" at the same move more times than I could count.
The new climber then asked me if i was using my thumb on the sidepull. I said that I was because there was a small divot I was putting my thumb in which seemed quite obvious to me. After falling off several more attempts I asked him where exactly he meant to use the thumb. Despite my french, which is seriously lacking when it comes to climbing jargon, I eventually understood that there was another thumb catch on the sidepull above the one I was using which he admitted was quite hard to get set up on, but would make the hold feel better.
Trying it this new way I finally felt like I could move off the sidepull and managed to slap towards the hold, I was a long way from sticking it but I finally felt like it was possible.
A few attempts later, I was not so sure. I felt better on the sidepull sure, but I still felt like I was slapping wildly for the finish and would need a lot more control to finish it.
With 10 minutes left before I had to leave to catch my bus I came off an attempt with both my skin and my tendons hurting, I decided I was done and started to pack up. I looked at my watch while packing my bag and decided I could still give one more attempt and make my bus. I put some tape on the worst of my fingers and got on for one last try. When I got on the sidepull I put my thumb up and felt my ring and pinky finger latch on better than they had before. I let myself think it might just be possible before stabbing for the finish hold. To my surprised I reached it and held it.
It was so surprising it was actually anti-climactic. I had already decided I was not going to get it today and was giving one more attempt just to get the moves even more wired. But once again it's shown me that I seem to climb my best when I climb without expectations.
What I need to learn is how to get so I can always climb with this mindset.
Once again a very poorly quality video...
L'enflure from Dave Stack on Vimeo.
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